Scientific Skin Care News 15

Scientific Beauty News Letter

15. Natural Moisturizing Factors!
The structure of epidermis if is intact, it makes the skin healthy. When we talk about the intact structure of the epidermis, it is not just the intact cells, but many more factors along with the cells.

The components that actually make the epidermis stronger and beautiful are actually called Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). These are all the ingredients which balance the beauty and health of the skin.

The skin is blessed with the sebum and the epidermal lipids. These oily substances prevent the evaporation of the moisture from the skin and provide lubrication to the surface of the skin. This actually forms the intracellular matrix, which along with these skin lipids provide great surface texture and feel to the healthy skin.

This intracellular matrix actually makes the skins first line of defence against water loss. Let me tell you that the skin is neither completely protected with the skin lipids nor the Natural moisturizing factors, but it is the combination of the Lipids and the NMF, which provides perfect protection, feel, softness and beauty of the skin.

Whenever the lipid and/or the NMF content of the skin reduces, what we experience si surface roughness of the epidermis, Flaking, dryness and associated fine lines, and an uncomfortable feeling of skin tightness and pulling on the skin.

Longer the skin surface is damaged, more is the ageing, where dehydration plays a major role. Not only the overall functioning of the skin is impaired, but also the healing process of the skin is impaired.

What is this NMF actually. It represents the group of chemical substances which actually retains moisture in the epidermis and we are saved from the daily atmospheric drying.

NMF represents a complex group of substances, that includes the Ceramides, Amino Acids,  Cholesterol, Fatty acids, Hyaluronic acid, Triglycerides, Phospholipids, Urea, Linoleic acid, Glycerine, Mucopolysaccharides, and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid.

The skin oils support the oer all retention of the moisture in the skin, and if you look for the outside source you will notice that some lipids have similar characteristics with the sebum of the body. These include the Apricot oil, Coconut oil, Soyabean Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Lanolin, Lecithine, Olive Oil, sesame oil, and all these things can be extremely helpful in making the skin come out of dryness, dehydration and starts looking better.

All these ingredients, the lipids and the NMF are present in the  intracellular structure of the epidermis. When any of these ingredients are included in the skin products with proper scientific study, they help stabilizing the normal intracellular matrix and this provides better skin to us.

Such moisturizing support prevents the surface irritation from penetrating deeper into the skin, helps keeping the bacteria out, and supports the immune as well as healing system of the skin. Therefore when these natural moisturizing factors are selectively incorporated into the moisturizers, they help repairing the damage t the skin.

This process if is kept intact for long term in the life, the skin is saved, the dryness reduces, excess irritation reduces and the skin rejuvenates.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 14

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14. Dry Skin!
Dry skin is also called Xerosis, it’s a common skin condition that occurs at all ages. Although normally it is not a serious issue, but many times it is difficult to handle.

Dry skin normally appears dehydrated, peeled, irritated and inflamed. It feels rough, scaly, sometimes painful and itchy. Severe conditions may be characterised by intense redness and itchiness. Such dry skin shows tendency to crack, causing deep fishers that may bleed indicating extremely dry skin.

The skin actually represents the barrier against the environment, it is made up of three layers:

a.      Hypodermis: It is the deepest layer of the skin and is mainly made up of Adipose tissue, with blood and lymphatic vessels and nerves.

b.      Dermis: Made up of the connective tissue, which contains collagen as well as elastin fibres, Blood vessels, sebaceous glands, Hair follicles and Sweat glands.

c.       Epidermis: the outermost layer of the skin. It is made up of Keratinocytes. The characteristic features of the epidermis include: Keratinocytes in the stratum corneum, contain an insoluble structure composed of several proteins. The cytoplasm is filled with keratin filaments and nuclear dissolution.

In Epidermis the keratinized cells are embedded in the lipid layers which are made up of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides.

Stratum corneum provides hydration and particularly the lipids in the stratum corneum plays an important role against evaporation and helps holding water.

What all is there along with the fats and dead cells in the stratum corneum? It contains the secretions of the sweat glands. It also contains the Natural moisturizing factors. These natural moisturizing factors contains Amino acids, Sugars, Lactic acid and urea.

When all these things are exciting, the question is why do skin turn dry?

The most simple causes of dryness include:

1.      Destroying the stratum corneum lipids using harsh soap, itchy clothing, long and hot showers and baths.

2.      Exposure to hot or cold weather, where the humidity is low. Dryness of skin often worsens in the winter, where several factors contribute to skin dryness, and in summer, constant exposure to air conditioning may produce similar effects.

3.      Several drugs like diuretics or topical or systemic retinoids may temporarily cause dry skin.

4.      In elderly patients, metabolic rate changes, and as the liquid intake reduces, it leads to indirect dryness of the skin.

5.      Hormonal imbalances that occur in menopause, hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism can also lead to severe skin dryness.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 13

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13. Stratum Corneum –Take Care!
 
Stratum Corneum serves as protective layer and is made up of the overlapping Scales, like the brick wall, where the disorders of the stratum corneum gives rise to dry skin symptoms.

The main function of the epidermis if you ask me, is production of stratum corneum. And in turn the main functions of stratum corneum are:

1.      Protecting against antigens such as virus, bacteria, which may get absorbed through the skin, and

2.      Locking moisture into the skin.] to prevent dehydration.

We must know that the epidermis is capable of retaining three times its weight of water. Stratum corneum looses pliability when its water composition falls to 10 percent or bellow. At this point, the skin begins to crack at the joints, exposing the internal sensitive skin tissue bellow the upper layer.

This situation is painful and leaves the skin sensitive to infection.  There are several factors which can contribute towards dry, dehydrated, flaky and cracked skin.

a.      Many a ties, dry, harsh air hits the moisture and the sebum layer of the skin.

b.      Long showers, bathing with very hot water, and extended time in bath tubs can extensively dry out the skin.

c.       Harsh soaps, scratchy sponges and alkaline products can extensively dry out the skin.

d.      Irritants to the skin, like clothes that itch, some of the chemical fabric softners and detergents, may damage the skin.

e.      Health and age factor can also contribute towards the dryness of the skin. With ageing the skin looses moisture and thickness on its own.

f.        Diabetes and thyroid issues can also dry out the skin.

How can we preserve the Stratum Corneum?

We have to reduce the risk of the above mentioned skin drying factors. We need to keep the skin soft, especially as it ages because with ageing the moisture holding capacity of the skin reduces. We must understand that the Stratum corneum is the bodies first defence against the outside world, but it not only protects us but also provides good look and gives feeling of soft, smooth touch reducing external friction.

This is why we have to take care of our external layer of the skin.

Let us discuss this issue of dry skin in the next issue, where we will focus on several untouched aspects of knowing a dry skin and understanding what to do for it.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 12

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12. Stratum Corneum –The topmost Layer of Epidermis!
 
The stratum corneum is the outermost of the 5 layers of the epidermis and supports strong barrier function of the skin. Understanding the structure and function of the stratum corneum is important because it is directly associated with your appearance. What you look as your skin is the stratum corneum from outside.
Trattum corneum is made up of the corneocytes, which in turn are made up protein complex that is made of tiny threads of keratin in an organized matrix.

The Protein keratin can hold large amounts of water between the fibers/ threads. The stratum corneum contains about 12-16 layers of corneocytes and each corneocyte has a mean thickness of 1 micrometer.

The thickness of the Stratum corneum varies in accordance with the Age, anatomical location dn exposure to UV radiation and friction.

In the keratinocytes of the stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum, small Lamellar bodies are formed. When the keratinocyte matures and enter into the stratum corneum, enzymes degrade the outer envelope of the lamellar bodies releasing types of lipids called free fatty acids and ceramides.

Free fatty acids and ceramides released, fuse together in the stratum corneum to form a continuous layer of lipids. This lipid bilayer plays a major role in maintaining the barrier properties of the skin.

Each corneocyte is surrounded by a protein shell cal. These proteins are extensively  linked with each other, which makes it completely water insoluble. Also here the cramide lipids are attached that repel water.
Because of the water repellent action of the combination of the proteins and ceramides,  water molecules are held between the lipid bilayer. This helps maintain the water balance in the stratum corneum by trapping water molecules instead of letting them absorb into the lower layers of the epidermis.

The corneocytes are hold together by specialized protein structures called corneodesmosomes, these be degraded for the skin to shed and this process is called as desquamation.

You must know one very important thing about this stratum corneum that the natural Moisturizing factors are located only in this layer. NMF components absorb water from the atmosphere and combine it with their own water content allowing the outermost layers of the stratum corneum to stay hydrated despite exposure to the elements.

Because NMF components are water soluble, they are easily leached from the cells with water contact – because of this repeated washing of face with water dries out the external layers of the epidermis giving feeling of dehydration and dryness.

Less frequent washing of the face protects the NMF in the stratum corneum.
Let us discuss in detail about the NMF in next news letter.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 11

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11. Stratum Corneum –The topmost Layer of Epidermis!
 
The stratum corneum is the outermost of the 5 layers of the epidermis and supports strong barrier function of the skin. Understanding the structure and function of the stratum corneum is important because it is directly associated with your appearance. What you look as your skin is the stratum corneum from outside.
Trattum corneum is made up of the corneocytes, which in turn are made up protein complex that is made of tiny threads of keratin in an organized matrix.

The Protein keratin can hold large amounts of water between the fibers/ threads. The stratum corneum contains about 12-16 layers of corneocytes and each corneocyte has a mean thickness of 1 micrometer.

The thickness of the Stratum corneum varies in accordance with the Age, anatomical location dn exposure to UV radiation and friction.

In the keratinocytes of the stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum, small Lamellar bodies are formed. When the keratinocyte matures and enter into the stratum corneum, enzymes degrade the outer envelope of the lamellar bodies releasing types of lipids called free fatty acids and ceramides.

Free fatty acids and ceramides released, fuse together in the stratum corneum to form a continuous layer of lipids. This lipid bilayer plays a major role in maintaining the barrier properties of the skin.
Each corneocyte is surrounded by a protein shell cal. These proteins are extensively  linked with each other, which makes it completely water insoluble. Also here the cramide lipids are attached that repel water.
Because of the water repellent action of the combination of the proteins and ceramides,  water molecules are held between the lipid bilayer. This helps maintain the water balance in the stratum corneum by trapping water molecules instead of letting them absorb into the lower layers of the epidermis.
The corneocytes are hold together by specialized protein structures called corneodesmosomes, these be degraded for the skin to shed and this process is called as desquamation.

You must know one very important thing about this stratum corneum that the natural Moisturizing factors are located only in this layer. NMF components absorb water from the atmosphere and combine it with their own water content allowing the outermost layers of the stratum corneum to stay hydrated despite exposure to the elements.

Because NMF components are water soluble, they are easily leached from the cells with water contact – because of this repeated washing of face with water dries out the external layers of the epidermis giving feeling of dehydration and dryness.

Less frequent washing of the face protects the NMF in the stratum corneum.
Let us discuss in detail about the NMF in next news letter.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 10

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10. Stratum Granulosum -A delicate structure for protection!
 
The stratum granulosum, sometimes also known as the granular layer, is the one in the middle layer. Underneath the stratum granulosum are two layers, with the lowest one consisting of actively dividing cells, while above are two layers of flattened inactive cells with the top, outer layer constantly being shed.
The progressive maturation of a keratinocyte is charcterized by the accumulation of keratin, called keratinization. The cells of the stratum granulosum accumulate dense basophilic keratohyalin granules (seen on the close-up view). These granules contain lipids, which along with the desmosomal connections, help to form a waterproof barrier that functions to prevent fluid loss from the body. 


As granulosum has visible granules, it is also known as granular layer. Among the five sublayers of epidermis of skin, granulosum is in the middle having spinosum  and lucidum layers on the inner and outer sides. The stratum granulosum creates a waterproof barrier between these outer layers and the inner, live cells.
 
In the regions of the body, where the skin is thin, there is no clear cut differentiation between granulosum and lucidum layers. Under the microscope, they appear grainy and consists of 2-5 cell thickness. These grainy, granular or granulosum cells are the keratinocytes, which have migrated from the lower spinosum. These are the last layer of living cells which are in the process of losing their nuclei and dying.

These squamous cells have many basophilic granules called keratohyalin granules which are small and are not bound by membrane. Filaggrin, a type of protein, is found in large quantities in these cells and is believed to bundle keratin.


Lipid containing lamellar granules are present which are bound by membrane. These membrane-bound granules secrete the contents to extracellular space by exocytosis and give rise to sheets of waterproof fatty barrier. This barrier function also prevent nutrients diffusion from the lower cells, leading to death of cells.
In the stratum granulosum, the protein Keratohyalin forms dense cytoplasmic granules that promote dehydration of the cells as well as aggregation and cross-linking of the keratin fibers. The nuclei and other organelles then disintegrate, and the cells die. Further dehydration creates a tightly interlocked layer of cells that consists of keratin fibers surrounded by keratohyalin.

You must clearly understand here that the layers below this layer are the leaving layers of cells and in this layer the actual cell death occurs. The stratum granulosum and the layers above are the dead cell layers, and when it comes to skin peeling, we should actually peel the skin to this level.

When we go deep inside the skin for peeling, there is damage to the leaving cells and the results are not adequate, but when we peel the skin just till the stratum granulosum, the healing process is blocked and the easy rejuvenation can be achieved.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 9

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9.    Stratum Spinosum-A delicate structure for protection!
 
Understanding  the structure of stratum spinosum into consideration, and understanding that although it protects the skin, it is the core center where the epidermal cells get damaged and your have maximum risk of skin cancer, taking this  into consideration we have formulated Nirmal exfoliating lotion and Mrunalini-30 sun screen. 

Understand one thing about Rahul Phate’s Research Products. These products are never designed looking at other cosmetic products but they are formulated after understanding the need of the skin.

Nirmal exfoliating lotion is not only the product which removes the dead cells from the skin, but at the same time it fills the stratum spinosum with moisture. This results in perfect protection of the skin, and it also avoids the UV damage to the cells of stratum spinosum. More over Nirmal also softens the collagen fibres and make the skin baby soft.

What I normally suggest is applying Nirmal all over the body overnight. Just apply about 2 tsp Nirmal all over the body and wash it in the morning just with water and experience the healthiest stratum spinosum which is filled with moisture and the collagen softens and you get soft, smooth and silky skin all over your body.

Remember that the general moisturizers are not sufficient to provide hydration in the stratum spinosum, but the Alpha Hydroxy Acids of Nirmal easily help penetrating the moisture towards the stratum spinosum and avoids the shrinkage of spinosum cells.

The second achievement in the dermatological research is the formulation: Mrunalini-30. When we have sun screens, they are meant for protecting the skin externally, but we need to understand that the most suffering layer of the skin is stratum spinosum.

Sun screen which just gives you screening action externally is of no use as a perfect protection against the damaging UV radiations. We need to have a special technology, where  the sun-screen externally protects the skin through the screening action, but at the same time it has skin penetration enhancing power.

When we have such type of sunscreen, it has natural moisturizing factors as well, then the hydrating molecules  rapidly enters the epidermis and fills the stratum spinosum with moisture. This practically reduces the tanning as well as photo damage to the skin.

What I suggest you as the scientist working on the skin concepts is, try out this great combination. Apply Nirmal over night on the body as well as facial skin.( If you have dry skin on the face) Massage gently till absorbed and leave it over night.

If you are applying it on face apply ½ tsp Nirmal, and for body about 2 tsp Nirmal will be required.  In the morning avoid using soap. Nirmal itself will help cleansing your skin. Just take bath with water.

After the bath, wipe the skin off with Turkish towel and apply Mrunalini-3o sunscreen all over your face and body.

Just do it for continuous 15 days and experience your own skin. I know you will be extremely happy with soft, smooth, delicate, fair and silky skin.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 8

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8.    Stratum Spinosum-A delicate structure for protection!
 

Let us enjoy the study of skin now.  Epidermis is made up of  four major layers of keratinocytes or corniocytes.

In the Epidermis, the stratum spinosum is a multi-layered structure of cuboidal cells that is located beneath  the stratum granulosum.  The Adjacent cells of stratum spinosum are joined by desmosomes, giving them a spiny appearance when the cells shrink and the desmosomes hold them firm.

Their nuclei are often darkened, which is an early sign of cell death. The cells slowly die as the  nutrients and oxygen in interstitial fluid have become exhausted before the fluid is able to reach them by diffusion. 

Cells of the stratum spinosum actively synthesize intermediate filaments called cytokeratins, which are composed of keratin. These intermediate filaments are anchored to the desmosomes, joining adjacent cells to provide structural support, helping the skin resist abrasion. 

The major functions of the Stratum Spinosum are:

1.      It protects against the foreign materials at the same time the anchoring cells keep them holding each other.

2.      This layer is also where Langerhans cells, components of your immune system that trap and transport foreign bodies or materials, are produced and often reside.

3.      Cells in this layer attack and remove infection, keeping your skin free from bacteria that may enter through a cut.

4.      The stratum spinosum also protects you from xerosis, (Dry Skin) When you stay properly hydrated, your stratum spinosum will protect you to the point that you should not need lotions to moisturize your skin.
 
Stratum spinosum is meant to protect your skin from common problems like dryness and infection, the malignant, or cancerous, cells can also grow here when exposed to harsh UV radiations, when they are exposed to sunlight, which causes them to mutate.

The stratum spinosum anchors the epidermis together, and it helps keep moisture inside your skin. While it protects you against common dryness and infection, it can also spawn cancerous cells if you do not properly protect yourself from the sun. That's why it's important to try and keep this layer as healthy as possible in order to keep your skin moist and safe.

We need to protect our skin understanding the mechanism of stratum Spinosum.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s

Scientific Skin Care News 7

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6.    Epidermis: Your Outer Cover!
 
The intact surface of the skin is pitted by the orifices of Sweat glands and hair follicles. They are called pores. Epidermis is actually your outer cover. This layer is upon the dermis, hence the name: Epidermis.

Epidermis basically is a stratified squamous epithelium.  Under the squamous cells are the rounded basal cells, and the deepest part of epidermis also contains Melanocytes. These melanocytes give colour to the skin by producing Melanin.

It is made up of the Keratinocytes which proliferate. It provides basic protection from the pathogens. It actually prevents the pathogens from entering the body. It makes the skin as the natural barrier to infections.

Epidermis is also responsible for the amount of water released from the body into the atmosphere. This is called as transdermal water loss.

In humans, the epidermis is thinnest on the eyelids that is about 0.05 mm and thickest on the palms and soles, that is about 1.5 mm. The epidermis is thickest on the friction surfaces and thinnest over the eyelids, on lower parts of abdomen and around the external genitalia.

All the cells of epidermis are attached to each other by ‘Desmosomes”. These are also called attachment plaques. The cells are not fused into each other, but the cell membranes are attached like the zipper. Externally the gaps between the cells is filled with the extracellular fluid. Due to this type of structure, the cells cannot slough off easily, at the same time it allows nutrient fluids to reach here from the dermis.

The Epidermal cells multiply in the stratum basale which is in direct contact with the dermis. The cells divide here and gradually ascend towards the surface, manufacturing Keratin. Finally they die in the upper part, forming a horny layer.

Epidermis is mainly made up of four types of cells.

1.      About 90% of epidermal cells are the Keratinocytes. They are also callse Corneocytes. These cells produce the protein Keratin, which is a waterproofing protein of epidermis and it also reduces the friction.

2.      About 5 percent cells are the Melanocytes. They are the dendritic cells only found in the deepest layers of the epidermis. They produce melanin, and are associated with the Keratinocytes by means of cytoplamsmic processes. Each melanocyte on an average supplies melanin to 35 to 40 keratinocyes.

3.      About 2 to 3 percent cells of the epidermis are the Langerhans cells. They are derived from the bone marrow and make essential part of the epidermal defence system.

The function of these cells is to detect foreign bodies(Antigens) which have penetrated the epidermis.

4.      Markel cells are the next type of the cells of epidermis.  These are situated between the keratinocytes in the basale layer and remain in contact with the nerve endings. They are many a times in a form of clusters called Markel Corpuscels. They work as mechanoreceptors and are involved in the function of touch.

Credit : Rahul Phate’s